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Our favorite, although, was a Fats, pork-loaded bao zi lurking in its individual lake of spicy, deeply savoury hot and sour broth. Chengdu dumplings were impeccable, silky and generously drizzled in chilli oil, though our skewers – cumin lamb and grilled king prawn – could have been a little more tender. Dan dan noodles lacked the requisite fie